WV-you will love this

Yeah, that was visually awesome.

Slowed down and with tinkly music in the background
you lose the incredible sense of the power of those waves though.

I hope before i die i can see something like that in real life.

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waterfield wrote:

I’ve only been to Mavericks once and they were practicing for a big swell predicted. It was right after I got out the hospital with a hip replacement surgery. I was on crutches and it wasn’t easy on crutches walking in the sand. Then you have to climb a dirt path up to the top of that cliff to get any kind of view. I couldn’t do that but Barb did. The break is a long long way out so even on top of that cliff you don’t get a good look w/o binoculars. People actually die out there !

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I know you know the Jeff Clark story…I first saw him in the surf documentary “Riding Giants” which is one of my top ten favorite movies of alltime.

waterfield wrote:

I love the old grainy films in that video. One problem for me is that big wave surfing is really dangerous especially for the normal everyday surfer. While I don’t know anyone personally who has been killed I know of several who have died in the last couple of years including an acquaintance of mine who is now in a board and care with severe brain loss from apoxia after falling from his board and being held down for several minutes. Most surfing film, understandingly, make the sport out to be glorious w/o a decent warning as to its dangers.

Same with free diving-something I’m more familiar with. Many think that because you simply need to hold your breath it’s simple to do (i.e. “snorkeling”). However, the more and deeper you want to go the more dangerous it becomes. Pretty soon your risking apoxia by shallow water blackout. You pass out and if no one is near your lungs can easily fill up with water and then your on the bottom.

The ocean is a fun place but depending on what your doing it can also be very dangerous. Films and videos about these sports need IMO to be more balanced.

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All true.

As you know, talking about death, sharks, and brain injuries will not help
surf-board sales etc.

Not much different than the NFL/concussion issue, etc.

I will refrain from blaming capitalism. Only because its a surfing thread, Waterfield and i wont besmirch a holy subject with politix 🙂

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